Reputable breeding and the NFRS

The good that you can do as part of being involved in the rat fancy and working with other breeders, sharing knowledge, lines, information, and advice – that is the part of the NFRS that is invaluable for breeders, and is so quickly thrown away with a tired old uninformed line of “snobby show breeders thinking they’re superior, it’s just paying to be on a list so it doesn’t mean anything, everyone else in the entire club is MEAN so i don’t want to get involved as I’m better than that”. It’s not about paying money to be a member of a club – it’s about being part of a group of people who know more than you, and who will work with you to improve rats as a whole. You simply can’t do as much good for rats outside of the community as you can inside of it because you’re not utilising all the resources available to you. You might think you’re well informed, but you’re not, you simply have no understanding of how much you don’t yet know.

For me and many other people, being reputable isn’t just about a breeder managing to breed some lovely rat kittens – that’s quite often the easy bit because rats are just naturally lovely creatures. It’s about working to improve the lives of rats that you breed, that other people breed, those that have nothing to do with your breeding! It’s about being part of a community that advises and helps and with that, improves knowledge and understanding and breeding methods and breeding lines for multiple people – because the end result of that is that the rats benefit, and my personal view is that if I’m not in this to benefit the lives of as many rats as possible, then I shouldn’t be doing it at all. That’s how I think all breeders should feel which is why I am so passionate about people breeding reputably.

But I mean if the aim is to make a bunch of baby rats you can sell on the internet, I guess it’s much less hard work and time commitment, so each to their own.

How odd eye works in rats

This is a gross oversimplification, but – black eyesare black because the rat has lots of melanin (black pigment) in theeyes. If you reduce this black pigment, the eyes become ruby, then red, then dark pink, then finally light pink if there’s no melanin at all.

Markings (white bits) on rats are where there’s no melanin too – there’s no melanin, so there’s no colour, so the fur becomes white. When a white patch is near the eye, there is a chance that the eye will be involved in this and lose some or all of the melanin, and so become paler coloured – and if this only happens on one eye, it will be odd eyed.

Certain genes makes odd eye more likely to happen. The colour gene red eye dilute (that gives buff/topaz) makes it more likely for odd eye to express. The Essex gene – especially when combined with RED – often gives odd eyes. The white spotting gene that gives chinchilla type rats is more likely to produce odd eyes. You can select towards the likelyhood of it happening but as there’s not a single gene that creates it, you can’t make any guarantees as to it happening.

Introducing rats for lazy rat owners

There will come a time in your rat-keeping life when you have two groups of rats that you wish to merge into one group of rats, or new kittens you wish to add to an existing group, or similar scenarios. There are many ways to introduce rats to other rats, and you can take as much time as you wish over it – complex scenarios of swapping cages over, neutral space time, back in their own cages, changing toys about between groups, or tiny carriers, then big carriers, then tiny cages, then medium cages, then big cages. They have their place, and I’m sure many rat owners love spending the time with complicated introductions, but this guide is for the lazy rat owner.

Introducing kittens to adults

To introduce kittens to adults, you will need a few simple items:

First, you will need an amount of common sense and knowledge of your own pets. Your adult group needs to be fairly stable and happy. Adding kittens to a group that is already stressed out (maybe someone needs castrated, or someone is ill and the rest are not happy about it, or the alpha or beta is rubbish at their job and leaving everyone else unhappy) will not make for a good outcome. If that’s your group – sort that out first before trying to add more rats.

Secondly, you need at least two appropriately aged kittens. Kittens for introducing to adults should be between about eight and twelve weeks old. Much younger kittens can be accidentally killed or injured by adults simply by accident, through normal introduction squabbles. Once they’re much older than that, the adults may see them as other adults and not give them the easy ride that babies enjoy.

Thirdly, you need an appropriately sized and furnished cage. Your triple royal suite, filled with tunnels and hidey holes, that is home to three residents and three new babies, isn’t going to be particularly useful here. Get a cage that suits the number of rats you’re introducing (so maybe half an SRS for six rats in total). Furnish it with no items where a rat can be trapped and be unable to run away – so hammocks are fine, ropes are fine, get rid of tunnels or closed off igloos.

Once you have found these ingredients, put ingredients one and two into ingredient three. Watch them. They’ll probably squabble a bit, and then they’ll stop, and then they’ll be pals. Watch them a bit more carefully for a couple of days to check they all seem fine (but remember they’re animals, not stuffed toys, and they may not instantly be best pals). Give them their tunnels back, and give them the rest of their cage back too.

 

Introducing adults to adults

To introduce adults to other adults, you’ll need at least two adult rats who don’t live together yet, an appropriately sized and furnished cage (see above), and a show tank or small carrier. Put the rats in the small tank or carrier. They’ll probably make the sort of noises you associate with rats having to work out who is the boss when they’re among strangers (if they get too noisy, I find tapping the top of the carrier and telling them to sort it out helps). Keep an eye on them, and they’ll probably stop after a while. Leave them in the carrier overnight, and in the morning when they’re all sleeping happily in a big pile, put them in an appropriate cage. After a few days, give them their stuff back.

 

I mean, use your common sense on this one too. If someone starts biting in the carrier and someone is bleeding, take them out. If a rat is obviously unhappy, stop the process. And remember that rats are living animals with their own preferences, their own personalities, their own likes and dislikes. Not all rats will get on, and if you find that introductions between specific rats are stretching on and on, and that they’re not getting on – it may be that they just don’t want to be friends. If you are continuing on with introductions when the rats have told you that they don’t want this, maybe it’s time to take a step back and decide if continuing on with the process is in their best interests.

Interspecies interaction

Showing rats interacting with predator species online is irresponsible and can contribute to animal cruelty.

I appreciate that your cat/dog/ferret/turkey is special and super wonderful, one in a million, so gentle, you have the best bond with them, and they wouldn’t hurt a fly, ever (just the same as everyone else’s pet tbh, if you ask them. But I’m sure yours is definitely the exception). But the danger is that everyone else thinks their predator is just as special, and that putting it with a prey animal will be fine. Which it will be until someone gets injured or killed.

Showing something dangerous as OK encourages other people to do it, and we’re not here to risk other people’s pets.

Handling and temperament again

Why does the view that “handling rats produces ticking time bombs and hides true genetic temperament” gain so much traction on facebook groups?

Temperament is, as thousands of scientific articles will tell you, determined by a combination of underlying genetics, environmental factors, and epigenetics. Not handling rats doesn’t mean you’re getting rid of environmental factors – you’re just giving a different set of environmental factors to people who do handle them.

I would hazard a guess that the majority of people who know that handling rats doesn’t produce “ticking time bombs”, and who manage to breed rats quite happily without constantly having to cull large percentages of our animals for having such poor temperaments that they can’t be trusted to pet homes, have decided that it just isn’t worth getting involved the majority of the time.

You can’t try to give people information based on experience as they continue to tell you how worthless experience is, if that experience hasn’t led to you coming to the same same conclusion as their chosen internet guru for 2017. You get told that your rats are just so different that they just can’t be compared (even if you have loads of experience breeding rats exported from the US). That your rats obviously have terrible temperaments (even if they regularly do well at shows under probably the most comprehensive pet standards for rats in the world). That your rats are ticking time bombs that WILL eventually maul a child (even if it just hasn’t happened over all your experience of rats – which you’re not allowed to mention someone will start telling you how experience is worthless).

The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person doing it – and frankly, having to keep pointing out that actually, we’re doing this, there is more than one way to skin a cat, isn’t doing any good to people who refuse to even listen and instead mainly resort to mockery, so we’re just getting on with it. In five years time when this particular cult has died off, we’ll probably still be mainly getting on with it.

Handling and temperament

If we have two genetically identical rats, but I handle mine gently, playfully, and regularly, and yours are handled infrequently, and when they are they’re handled purposefully to do temperament testing such as scruffing, or exposure to loud noises etc, the rats remain genetically the same, but the expressions of those genes will differ. Saying one is showing “true genetic temperament” and one is “trust trained” or “a ticking time bomb” is totally misunderstanding that both ways of raising a rat involve the environment that they’re being raised in working with the genetics to result in the end product.

The worst part of breeding

The process of rehoming rat kittens, from the beginning interaction with potential new owners, vetting them, allocating rats, arranging visits – it’s the worst. I find it really difficult, overly time consuming, and it is without a doubt my least favourite part of rat breeding. At the moment I have shut my facebook page down because the huge amount of unanswered messages on it, which I know will never get responses [update – it’s back!]. It is overwhelming for someone who is not good at communication.

The disconnect to a large degree is that really, even though at the end of it you’re wanting to buy something from me, I don’t consider you my customer and I’m not running a business. I have no desire to court your business, I have no need to impress you, and I don’t do what I do to create a product for sale. It just so happens that I sometimes have more rats than I need, and you have fewer than you want, so it is mutually agreeable for me to let you buy those rats.

I am lucky in that I could home out every kitten I want to ten times over without a problem. Especially more over recent years, I try to only home rats to people I feel will “get” me, and not be offended or upset if I am shite at regular communication, or set out to character assassinate me online should their rats get ill at any point. But I still feel worried and nervous about selling rats to people because you never know how it will work out.

Realistically, what I need is a rattery secretary. Someone to act as the “public face” of my rattery, who enjoys speaking to people, writing lovely emails, vetting new owners, organising waiting lists, allocating kittens to people, dealing with follow-up enquiries, all that sort of stuff, so I can get on with the thing I do best, which is sitting in my shed on my own cleaning hutches, playing with my rats, and raising litters of baby rats.

Creating new lines vs. improving and maintaining

Maintaining and improving quality in an established and existing line is just as hard – if not harder – than increasing quality on a line from very poor origins. It takes very little real work to take a line from poor quality to acceptable quality (to a large degree, just feeding, raising, and housing them in better conditions for a few generations will make them much better, nevermind any selection you do). But moving a rat from being acceptable quality to very good quality is harder, and actually maintaining a top quality line is very difficult.

Rat breeding is about spinning lots of plates in the air at once, not about checking things off a list. You can’t breed to get one aspect right, tick it off as “done”, then move on to something else. You need to constantly be spinning each plate enough to ensure that it’s not going to fall down, carefully watching to ensure none of the other plates are wobbling too much.

Describe your perfect line of rats…

In a perfect line, each rat would live to 2.5-3 years of age, with a zero rate of lumps, respiratory illness, ear infections, and other illness. They would die very suddenly with no long gradual decline at the end of life. They would have a bold and confident temperament, actively seeking out human company and entirely relaxed when handled by strangers, but also happy generally with the company of rats and not too “needy” with people – and each one would have that sparkling “x factor” that a rat needs to have to really show itself off on the show bench or become a favourite in the cage.
 
They would be slightly above average size, with racy, well muscled, long bodies that flow nicely into a long and proportionately thick tail. They would have large well shaped ears set neatly on the head, bold eyes, and a long, wide head with lots of character that is pleasant to look at both straight on and in profile. Their fur would be short, thick, and without moult marks, perfectly meeting the standard for their variety (whatever their variety happens to be).
 
They would be easy breeders, happily giving birth to a litter of around eight to ten kittens that slowly grow to maturity without any need for extra protein meals or particular supplementation. Each of the kittens would of course grow up to be just as perfect as each other.
 
It would make rat shows very difficult though, as if each rat was as excellent quality wise as the other, it would be impossible to decide first place. But until that point, we should never be resting on our laurels as breeders and always aim to be improving, because whatever we have isn’t perfection.

Random ramblings …

This is mainly a compilation of posts I’ve made on various forums and facebook groups, and articles I’ve written for rat club magazines. Comments, discussion, and conversation are welcomed 🙂